Gubalowka Hill

At the northern end of Krupowki street you can stroll on through the market to Gubalowka Hill. At its summit you will find the starting points of several trails through the countryside, as well as a sweeping panorama of the Tatra mountains.

As you walk the short stretch between Krupowki and Gubalowka you may well be cajoled into buying anything from a bear-hunting jacket to a St. Bernard puppy. The temptation to buy the latter is hard to overcome - but unless you're shacked up here permanently, sadly the opportunity has to be forgone. However, the spirited old ladies who run the cheese and pickled mushroom stalls will be delighted if you try their fare. (If the rubbery texture is not to your taste, you can quietly bury the evidence in some snow at the top of the hill).

Pressing on like a gallant knight, you will soon arrive at the cable-car station. From here you can take the funicular to the top. It takes about four minutes and costs 14 zloty for a return journey. It's also possible to walk it, which takes about an hour. However, if you're planning to begin a trail at the top, you may want to go easy on yourself on this first leg of the trip. The car ascends by rail through an avenue of fir-trees. Half way up, James Bond films start to come to mind, and you half expect Jaws to suddenly leap onto the roof, with an appropriately steely grin.

At the top there are plenty of little shops and restaurants to potter about in, whilst you'll find a splendid view of the Tatras. There is also a very pretty wooden chapel about a minute's stroll to the west, and it overlooks the sweeping expanse of the Podhale.

Several trails are clearly marked on your arrival. Heading west, you can take the black route through the Czarny Dunajec valley. On this trail you will arrive in the village of Witow after a couple of hours hiking. From there, as is generally the case with trails in the area, you can take a bus back to Zakopane, or set up camp in a pension.

Another trail that begins on the western route takes you to the attractive old village of Chocholow. There are two possible routes, and the trip will take you about four hours.

Heading east from the cable-car you can take a path to Poronin. From there, if you're still feeling ready for battle, you can follow an arc back to Bukowina Tatrzanska, the highest village in the region.